Early Chronograph Watch History

In 1816, Louis Moinet invented the first-ever pocket watch with chronograph capabilities. However, he referred to it as the “compteur de tierces,” (meaning “thirds counter” in French,) rather than using the term “chronograph” and it was invented for astronomy (timing the passage of stars and planets) rather than racing.

Surprisingly, it was not until 2013 that Louis Moinet received credit for this groundbreaking invention. Jean-Marie Schaller, the current CEO of the Louis Moinet watch brand, presented evidence proving Moinet’s role as the true inventor of the chronograph watch.

Before this revelation, Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec was widely believed to be the inventor of the chronograph. Rieussec developed a pocket watch chronograph for King Louis XVIII in 1821, specifically for timing horse races. Therefore, while Rieussec’s creation is not the first chronograph it can be considered the first purpose-built racing watch, as it marked the start and finish of elapsed time by depositing ink on a rotating dial. This origin story explains the name “chronograph, derived from the Greek words “chronos” (time) and “graph” (writer), i.e., “timewriter.”

In 1844, Swiss watchmaker Adolphe Nicole patented a simplified version of the chronograph that integrated the start, stop, and reset functions into a single push-button mechanism.

In the 1880s, Edouard Heuer — the founder of what we now know as TAG Heuer — recognized the importance of accurate pocket chronographs for increasingly popular sporting events, so he began producing them in large numbers.

From Chronograph Pocket Watches to Chronograph Wristwatches

Following several key advancements in chronograph technology in the late-1880s to the turn of the 20th Century, one of the biggest shifts in the history of the chronograph happened with the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches during the early-1900s.

For instance, Longines introduced the Caliber 13.33Z in 1913, which was one of the first chronograph movements ever developed for a wristwatch. The crown served not only to wind the watch but also as a pusher to control the chronograph; first push to start, second to stop, and third to reset.

In 1915, Gaston Breitling (the son of the founder of Breitling watches) continued his father’s ambition of making top-notch chronographs by creating one of the world’s first wrist-worn chronographs with an independent chronograph pusher. Then, Gaston’s son, Willy Breitling introduced the first two-pusher chronograph wristwatch in 1934—one pusher to start and stop the chronograph hand and the other to reset it to zero, which is the same architecture we find on most of today’s modern chronographs.

Jumping back to Longines, the company was granted a patent for the flyback chronograph mechanism (where the chronograph hand can be reset without having to stop it first) in 1936.

Wristwatches played an important role during World War II and watchmakers began supplying accurate timepieces to the armed forces. The German Air Force (the Luftwaffe) supplied some of its pilots with chronograph watches, also known as Flieger chronographs.

Post-World War II Chronographs

Post-World War II witnessed the birth of some of the most iconic chronograph watches ever made – many of which remain exceedingly popular today.

In the early-1950s, Breitling made a special chronograph watch for the members of the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). Thanks to the watch’s innovative rotating slide rule bezel, wearers could perform vital flight calculations such as average speed, distance traveled, fuel consumption, rate of climb or descent, and measurement conversions. This chronograph was later sold to the public as the now-famous Breitling Navitimer.

Omega released the Speedmaster chronograph in 1957 as the first to feature the tachymeter scale on the bezel rather than the dial for better legibility. While the Speedmaster chronograph was originally designed for racing (it’s in the name!), the watch became inextricably linked to space exploration after it became the first watch to make it to the Moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. As such, the Speedmaster is affectionately known as the ‘Moon Watch’.

Named after the Carrera Panamericana car race, Heuer released the Carrera chronograph in 1963. The Carrera chronograph remains a staple in TAG Heuer’s catalog. That same year, another chronograph made its debut, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona—arguably, the world’s most famous chronograph watch. However, when Rolex first launched the Daytona, it was far from popular; in fact, it was one of the company’s slowest-selling models. That would eventually change, of course, but not before a very important milestone occurred in the history of the chronograph: the introduction of the automatic chronograph.

The Battle to Make the First Automatic Chronograph

1969 was a pivotal year in horology as it was when the automatic chronograph movement burst onto the scene. While it is still up for debate on which company can lay claim to the very first automatic chronograph, there are some key pioneering watch brands to note.

Zenith would be the first to make headlines by announcing its automatic El Primero chronograph movement (the same that would power Rolex Daytona chronographs from the late 1980s until 2000) in January 1969. Yet, the company presented working prototypes and not ready-for-sale models.

Seiko released the automatic Speedtimer chronograph watch in May of that same year; however, it was limited to the Japanese market.

Then, in August of 1969, a group of esteemed watchmakers consisting of Breitling, Buren, Hamilton, Heuer, and Dubois-Depraz unveiled a slew of automatic chronograph watches, all powered by the Chronomatic movement they collaborated to develop.

Ironically, the year that brought about one of the biggest innovations in mechanical watchmaking was the same one that saw the arrival of its destruction: the Seiko Astron quartz watch, which launched on December 25, 1969.

Quartz Era Chronographs

As previously mentioned, Seiko introduced the world’s first quartz watch with the Astron in 1969. That kicked off what we now know as the Quartz Crisis or Quartz Revolution, depending on your perspective. It wasn’t long before quartz chronograph watches began taking over from mechanical chronographs, particularly ones with digital displays as these were considered super futuristic and high-tech.

In 1975, Seiko launched the 0634, the world’s first multifunctional digital quartz watch that included a chronograph function. In 1977, Seiko began mass producing the A159 digital quartz watch, which had an alarm and a chronograph, thereby advancing multi-functional digital watches. While Seiko was certainly a pioneer in the space, it was not the only one making quartz chronographs in the 1970s and 1980s.

Heuer introduced the Chronosplit in 1975, which included two digital displays: an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) display on top and an LED (Light Emitting Diode) display below. Omega chose the 1976 Montreal Olympics to unveil the Omega Chrono-Quartz, the world’s first digital/analog chronograph. Then Breitling released the quartz LED Navitimer ref. 9016 in 1977.

The multifunction G-Shock by Casio hit the market in 1983, Breitling introduced the famed Aerospace watch in 1985, and Timex launched its first analog-digital hybrid multi-function watch in 1987.

An important milestone in the history of the quartz chronograph occurred in 1983 when Seiko introduced the 7A28 movement as the world’s first quartz chronograph movement with an analog display. This concept really took off as chronographs could benefit from the combination of traditional looks and the practicality and affordability of quartz movements.

Heuer unveiled quartz versions of its Pilot Chronographs in 1983 and in 1986, the newly-renamed TAG Heuer launched the Formula 1 collection with a vast assortment of affordable Swiss-made quartz watches and chronographs. Omega released several Seamaster Polaris chronographs powered by quartz movements during the 1980s. The first Swatch chronograph appeared in 1990. And in the mid-1990s, Citizen debuted its light-powered Eco-Drive line of watches including chronographs.

As quartz movements were sweeping through the watch industry, several watchmakers were also pushing mechanical chronographs to ensure that these traditional timepieces didn’t disappear forever.

Mechanical Chronographs in the 1980s and 1990s

In 1983, Breitling launched a specially designed automatic chronograph for the Italian Frecce Tricolori Jet team – it had to be mechanical because as we mentioned quartz chronographs with analog displays hadn’t taken off yet. And the design of the Breitling Frecce Tricolori paved the way for the brand’s highly successful Chronomat chronograph collection.

Many point to the 1985 introduction of the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph as the moment when the watch industry began its comeback to complex mechanical movements, which often included pairing chronographs with other complications.

In 1988, Rolex finally launched the automatic Daytona chronograph collection and discontinued the manual-winding versions. These early automatic Daytona chronographs were powered by Zenith El-Primero movements.

That same year, movement maker Frédéric Piguet unveiled the Caliber 1185, an ultra-thin automatic chronograph movement with an upscale column-wheel and vertical-clutch design. This movement eventually found its way into some famed chronographs such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph (first launched in 1998), Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph (first launched in 1999), Breguet Marine Chronograph (introduced in the mid-1990s), and others.

One of the most famous chronographs known today is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, launched in 1993.

In 1999, A. Lange & Söhne made waves with the launch of the Datograph, which was powered by an in-house chronograph movement built from the ground up. This move paved the way for many other high-end watchmakers to pursue making their own in-house chronograph movements rather than following the tradition of relying on ébauche movements.

The In-House Mechanical Chronograph Movement Boom of the 2000s & 2010s

A significant shift that happened during the 2000s and 2010s in the history of the chronograph was high-end watchmakers racing to launch their own manufacture chronograph movements. Here are some of the highlights.

In 2000, Rolex launched a new generation of automatic Daytona chronographs, all powered by the in-house-made Caliber 4130

In 2004, Jaeger-LeCoultre announced the in-house Caliber 751 automatic chronograph movement.

In 2005, Patek Philippe finally introduced its first fully in-house chronograph, which was the monopusher rattrapante reference 5959P powered by the Caliber CHR 27-525 PS.

In 2007, IWC released the Caliber 89000, which was a flyback integrated chronograph movement that can be combined with other complications.

That same year, Piaget introduced its first in-house chronograph with the Caliber 880P, which eventually severed as the base of the Caliber 883P — one of the world’s thinnest chronograph movements ever made.

In 2009 Breitling released the B01 movement, its first in-house automatic chronograph movement. In 2011, Omega launched the in-house made Caliber 9300 chronograph movement with a Co-Axial escapement.

In 2013, TAG Heuer announced the Caliber 1969, which many agree is the brand’s first true in-house chronograph movement as there were some controversies around the origins of the TAG Heuer Caliber 11 and Caliber 1887 movements. That same year, Cartier presented its first in-house chronograph movement that served to power the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph watches.

In 2015, Vacheron Constantin unveiled three in-house chronograph movements in the Harmony collection: the Caliber 3300 Monopusher, the Caliber 3500 Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph, and the Caliber 3200 Tourbillon Chronograph.

Hard to believe, but Audemars Piguet’s first in-house-made chronograph movement only appeared in 2019 with the introduction of Caliber 4401, which debuted in the CODE 11.59 line but has since rolled out to other collections like the Royal Oak.

In 2019, Bulgari broke records by introducing the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, the world’s thinnest mechanical chronograph.

Chronograph Watches Today

It’s no secret that chronograph watches are some of the most popular watch styles in today’s market, whether they’re powered by quartz, manual, or automatic movements. Not only are they available in a variety of price points but they’re also offered in countless styles.

What’s more, chronograph functions are often paired with other types of watch features such as calendars, multiple time zones, diving bezels, and in some cases, super high-end complications such as tourbillons, minute repeaters, and astronomical displays.

Regardless of your taste, budget, or wrist size, there’s certainly a chronograph watch out there for you.

Do you have a favorite chronograph watch that you own? Or is there one you’re looking to add to your collection eventually? Share your comments with us below.

The post The History of Chronograph Watches appeared first on StrapsCo.

But what is a Panda dial, you ask? It’s a dial that’s defined by black counters on a white background, which resembles the face of the famed panda bear. If you like the look of these vintage-inspired sporty watches as much as we do, check out our roundup of the top 8 panda dial chronograph watches, ranging from less than $300 to over $14,000.

1. Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph
Price: $270

Prolific watch collector Dan Henry launched his eponymous watch brand to offer handsome vintage-inspired timepiece designs at reasonable prices. And the Dan Henry 1964 Grand Turismo Chronograph collection is a fantastic example of an affordable panda dial chronograph that delivers as promised.

The watches feature 38mm steel cases, which are paired with beads-of-rice bracelets (along with an additional leather strap.) While the collection offers several models, our pick would be the 1964 Grand Turismo Chronograph White Panda Tricompax with the black bezel. The watches run on meca-quartz movements to supply a smooth motion center chronograph hand but with the accuracy of a quartz caliber.

2. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph
Price: $675

Nicknamed the “Seitona” due to its resemblance to the Daytona, the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph has all the good-looking details you want on a classic Panda chronograph. The watch’s design takes inspiration from Seiko’s first precision chronographs, which were developed in 1964 specifically for sporting events.

The contemporary version, the Seiko Speedtimer ref. SSC813, has a 39mm steel case topped with a black tachymeter bezel and furnished with three black counters on a white sand-blasted dial. This Speedtimer Panda runs on a quartz movement that is powered by light and boasts a 6-month power reserve when fully charged.

3. Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph
Price: $1,750

Revived only a few years ago, the current PRX collection has been a smash hit for Tissot. As a result, the company has expanded the PRX lineup with plenty of new models – including a striking PRX Automatic Chronograph with a panda dial.

Like all Tissot PRX watches, this one features that seventies-inspired sports watch style, complete with an angular 42mm steel case and integrated steel bracelet. In true Panda dial form, the white dial is home to black subsidiary dials, and the use of rose gold-colored hands and indexes adds a dressy touch to the piece.

4. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono
Price: Starting at $2,195

When it comes to modestly-priced Swiss-made automatic Panda chronographs, one name that comes up often is the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono.

Ultra-stylish in its 60’s retro design, the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono sports a 42mm steel case with old-school style pump pushers. Rather than placing the tachymeter scale on the bezel, Hamilton put it on the Panda dial, which not only frames the white dial perfectly but also matches the pair of black counters. The Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is available with either a steel mesh bracelet or a black leather strap, and runs on an automatic movement with 60 hours of power reserve.

5. Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Price: Starting at $5,000

The new-generation Tudor Black Bay Chrono is arguably one of the best Panda chronographs in its price segment. First, this 41mm stainless steel chronograph is fitted with screw-down chronograph pushers and crown — all to ensure the watch’s water resistance of 200 meters.

Then, you get the opaline dial, punctuated with two black counters, a discreet date window at 6 o’clock, a touch of red text, and a red-tipped seconds hand. On top of the case is an old-school-style domed sapphire crystal while inside the case is the Tudor Cal. MT5813 self-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Finally, depending on your style, you can opt to pair the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Panda dial with a black fabric strap, black leather cuff strap, or riveted steel bracelet.

6. Tag Heuer Autavia Automatic Chronometer Flyback
Price: $6,300

TAG Heuer is no stranger to panda dial chronographs, with plenty of them in the brand’s archives. While the recently released 42mm TAG Heuer Autavia Automatic Chronometer Flyback has a silver dial, we still count it as a Panda since it achieves a very similar look — especially when you take into account the black ceramic bezel.

The use of the Arabic numbers on the dial is a nod to the pilot-style watch that has come to define the modern Autavia line while the combination of two black counters and the third one in silver is a clever way to not clutter up the dial.

7. Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival
Price: $9,000

As its name suggests, the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival is a re-issue of a watch from the brand’s archives — the angular tonneau-shaped A384 from 1969, which was one of the world’s first automatic chronographs. Zenith even kept the compact 37mm size and the same sized pushers and crown. Inside is the high-beat El Primero 400 automatic caliber.

The panda dial includes a white lacquered background, three black counters (whereby the ones at 3 and 9 are larger than the one at 6), a black tachymeter scale on the periphery, and a date window between 4 and 5. A super cool touch on the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival is its distinctive ladder bracelet.

8. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Price: $14,550

The most famous modern Panda dial chronograph of them all is, without a doubt, the Rolex Daytona. Six years after its 2016 release, the Daytona 116500LN with the white Panda dial is still virtually impossible to buy at retail and is valued well over twice its sticker price on the secondary market.

The watch features a 40mm steel case, a black ceramic bezel, and a steel Oyster bracelet. The three counters on the white dial are marked with black rings while the Daytona name arches over the 6 o’clock counter in bright red. Like all modern Daytonas, the 116500LN is equipped with screw-down pushers and crown and runs on the in-house-made Caliber 4130 automatic chronograph movement.

That brings us to the end of our list of the top eight chronographs with Panda dials to suit a range of budgets. What do you think of chronographs with Panda dials in general? Do you have a favorite one or do you have some you’d add to this list? As always, we’d love to hear your feedback so share your comments below.

The post Top 8 Panda Dial Chronographs appeared first on StrapsCo.

How about Daytona homage watches? As we’ve previously discussed in our roundup of Submariner homages, homage watches are not replica watches pretending to be the real deal. Rather, homage watches are designed to mimic the look of a famous timepiece without any pretense that they’re original. As expected, there’s quite a bit of controversy around these copycat watches. However, pushing those debates aside, we’re here to show you some solid Rolex Daytona homage watch options if you’re in the market for one.

The Basics of a Rolex Daytona

Before we jump into the homage watches, it would help to outline what makes a Daytona a Daytona. The Rolex Daytona is a chronograph watch, featuring three subdials on the dial, a tachymeter scale on the bezel, and two chronograph pushers on the case flanking the winding crown.

Vintage Daytona watches, which were produced from 1963 until 1988, are 38mm in size and run on manual-winding movements. Modern Daytona watches, which debuted in 1988, have 40mm cases and run on automatic movements. They’re available in a wide range of materials, and are fitted with one of Rolex’s signature bracelets—either the three-link Oyster metal bracelet or the Oysterflex rubber strap. What’s more, depending on the specific reference, a Rolex Daytona can either have a metal bezel, acrylic bezel (vintage), or Cerachrom ceramic bezel.

With these design fundamentals in mind, let’s have a closer look at some alternatives to the Rolex Daytona.

Pagani Design Chronograph Sport

Prices starting at $75

China-based Pagani Design makes a large assortment of Rolex lookalike watches, including the Daytona. The Pagani Chronograph Sport is the least expensive offering of our homage picks starting at around $75. For that price, you get a 40mm quartz chronograph that looks remarkably like a Daytona, complete with a three-link bracelet and sapphire crystal. However, the Pagani includes a date window on the dial, which of course, the Daytona does not have.

The Pagani Chronograph Sport is available in a variety of colorways including steel with a ceramic bezel (like the popular Daytona 116500LN), two-tone steel and gold-colored shades, and bright options like green and blue.

Invicta Speedway

Prices starting at $80

Affordable watch brand, Invicta, is famous for its vast collection of watch models, many of which are based on iconic luxury watch designs. The Invicta Speedway is undoubtedly the brand’s take on the Rolex Daytona—its name is even a not-so-subtle nod to the famous racetrack in Daytona, Florida.

The Invicta Speedway sports a 39.5mm case that houses a quartz movement. The three-register dial also includes a date window wedged between 4 and 5 o’clock and the tachymeter scale is engraved on the metal bezel. Loyal to the Daytona design, the Invicta Speedway also comes with a three-link Oyster-like bracelet, in addition to screw-down pushers and crown. However, unlike the original Daytona, the Speedway is offered in more dial and metal colors, including non-traditional options like blacked-out cases and pink accented dials.

Stührling Ultima

Prices starting at $95

Stührling is another well-known maker of affordable homage watches, often taking design cues from popular luxury sports models. For a larger Daytona homage, there’s the Stührling Ultima 3960 with a 42mm case. These quartz-powered chronographs include ring outlines around the three subdials—just like the Daytona— but with the addition of a date window.

Thanks to screw-down pushers, crown, and caseback, the Stührling Daytona homage watches are water-resistant to 100 meters and a mineral crystal protects the dial. Similar to other lookalikes, the Ultima chronographs are offered in plenty of case, dial, and bezel colors but they all include bezels (no ceramic here) engraved with the tachymeter scale.

Alpha Chronograph

Prices starting at $245

The Alpha Chronograph is an interesting proposition since not only does it look like a vintage Daytona “Paul Newman” but it’s also powered by a manual-winding movement. And you can see that Seagull mechanical movement at work via the transparent caseback.

Dial-side, there’s plenty Paul Newman-inspired details including the Art Deco numerals on the subdials, dark registers contrasting with the light background, round lume plots, and a dark minute track running around the periphery. The 39mm steel case is topped with a black bezel and comes equipped with a three-link steel bracelet. However, thanks to drilled lug holes in the case, you can easily switch out the bracelet for a retro-looking leather strap or a different metal bracelet design.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC813

Prices at $675

If you’re looking for a watch that looks similar to a Daytona made by a respectable brand with a long watchmaking history, then Seiko may have what you’re looking for in the form of the Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC813. Readers of this blog will know how much we love Seiko watches, which manage to boast solid quality and in-house movements with accessible price points.

The Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC813, which has been nicknamed the “Seitona” in some circles due to its uncanny resemblance to Rolex’s flagship chronograph, is inspired by Seiko’s first precision chronographs that were developed for international sporting competitions in 1964. The 39mm steel case houses a Panda-style dial with three black subdials punctuating the white background, and there’s a date window at 4:30. There’s also a domed sapphire crystal, a black tachymeter-scale bezel, and a three-link steel bracelet. Furthermore, since the Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph is powered by light energy, you won’t have to change the battery.

Steinhart Ocean One Vintage Chronograph

Prices starting at $1,060

Steinhart is a Germany-based brand that uses Swiss-made movements in its watches, most of which are directly inspired by big brand timepieces. The quality of Steinhart watches is a step up from some of the other homage watches we’ve covered here—and its price tag reflects that.

The Ocean One Vintage Chronograph collection is home to the Steinhart vintage Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” homage watches. These pieces include 42mm steel cases, domed sapphire crystals, and a few dial color options such as beige (with black registers) and black (with beige registers), along with the familiar red minute markers around the outer edge. Powering the Ocean One Vintage Chronograph models are the automatic Dubois Dépraz DD 2020 movements, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Prices starting at $5,000

We can’t discuss Daytona lookalikes without mentioning Tudor, Rolex’s younger and more affordable sister brand. While affordability is of course relative, the $5,000 cost of a Tudor Black Bay Chrono is still significantly cheaper than a Rolex Daytona. To be clear, the BB Chrono is not a copy of the Daytona—it has a style of its own. However, we do see it as a very worthy alternative when the Daytona is simply not a realistic option.

The Black Bay Chrono has a 41mm case topped with black aluminum tachymeter bezels. The dial has only two subdials, a date window at 6 o’clock, and in true Black Bay form, snowflake hands on the dial. Although the vast majority of BB Chrono models are in stainless steel, Tudor does offer a few two-tone steel/gold versions too. All these watches are offered with the choice of a metal three-link riveted bracelet, a wide leather cuff, or a black fabric strap.

Whether you want to spend less than $100 or are willing to drop four figures, the market for Rolex Daytona lookalikes has plenty to offer. What do you think of our list of Daytona homage watches? Do you own one or are thinking of getting one? Drop us a comment down below.

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Rolex, Omega, and Zenith all make popular chronograph watches—but what sets them apart? Join us as we compare the iconic Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, the legendary Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch,” and the newly-released Zenith Chronomaster Sport El Primero in this head-to-head chronograph battle to see which one reigns supreme. Plus, there are some intriguing overlaps between these famous chronographs that may just surprise you. Let’s dig in to uncover the details!

History & Evolution

Omega debuted the Speedmaster in 1957 as the world’s first chronograph to have the tachymeter scale on the bezel instead of on the dial. Tachymeters help wearers calculate the average speeds and/or distances of moving objects between two points, which makes them especially good for racing events. As such, the Omega Speedmaster was positioned as a watch for motorsports. However, in the 1960s, NASA flight-qualified the Speedmaster and it became the first watch to land on the Moon during the Apollo 11 space flight. As a result, even if there are car racing-inspired Speedmaster references, this famed Omega chronograph is forever connected to space exploration with several “Moonwatch” models in its catalog.

Image: Buzz Aldrin wearing Omega Speedmaster in Space

Rolex introduced the Cosmograph in 1963 and shortly thereafter, added “Daytona” to the name to emphasize the link between the chronograph and the adrenaline-fueled world of auto racing. Rolex Daytona chronographs initially ran on manual-winding movements until they were replaced by automatic ones in the late-1980s. Today, those hand-wound Daytona vintage chronographs are some of the most collectible watches in the market, and in 2017, Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona sold for a whopping $17.8 million at auction.

Image: Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman”

In 1969, Zenith became the first watchmaker to announce its plans to launch an automatic chronograph movement, which the brand called “El Primero,” which means “the first” in Spanish. Other brands also introduced automatic chronograph watches that same year and some made it to market earlier than Zenith, however, the El Primero high-frequency, fully integrated automatic movement stood out for its excellent performance and inclusion of a running seconds hand and date complication. However, the Quartz Crisis brought Zenith to the brink and after it was sold to a Chicago-based firm in 1971 the American owner wanted to focus on making quartz movements and demanded that all of Zenith’s mechanical movement machinery and tools be sold. However, Zenith engineer Charles Vermot defied orders and hid essential equipment and plans in a dusty attic in one of the company’s facilities in Switzerland, where they sat dormant for about a decade.

When Rolex wanted to modernize its manual-winding Daytona in the 1980s, Zenith was able to supply El Primero movements to Rolex thanks to Charles Vermot’s secret stash of machinery and blueprints. Rolex launched the first automatic Daytonas in 1988 and continued to produce these El Primero-powered chronographs (aptly nicknamed “Zenith Daytona” watches) for over 20 years. In 2000, Rolex switched to in-house-made automatic movements for its line of Daytona models, and continues to use them today.

Image: El Primero-powered Rolex Daytona “Zenith Daytona”

Along with supplying its famed caliber to other watch brands, Zenith also expanded its line of mechanical chronograph line with various models—but always with the El Primero movement inside. In 2021, Zenith released the Chronomaster Sport line, complete with a new El Primero 3600 caliber and a striking resemblance to a modern Rolex Daytona.

Design & Mechanics

Since there has been a myriad of Daytona, Speedmaster, and El Primero models made over the last six decades, we’ve picked three specific references from the current lineup to make a fair comparison:

• Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002 (launched in 2021)
• Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116500LN (launched in 2016)
• Zenith Chronomaster Sport 03.3100.3600 (launched in 2021)

At first glance, all three of these chronographs by Rolex, Omega, and Zenith are quite similar in design as they all feature steel cases, black bezels, sapphire crystals, black dials with a trio of registers at 3/6/9 o’clock, and sporty steel bracelets. However, upon closer inspection, there are some notable differences to consider.

Image: Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch”

In terms of size, the Cosmograph Daytona is the smallest of the bunch coming in at 40mm, followed by Zenith Chronomaster at 41mm and the Omega Speedmaster at 42mm. The first has screw-down chronograph pushers while the latter two have pump pushers. The Chronomaster Sport has a date window at 4:30 whereas the Daytona and Speedmaster do not include any date indicators. Both the Zenith and the Rolex chronographs have modern ceramic bezels whilst Omega retains a classic aluminum bezel. Yet, while the Daytona and Speedmaster have tachymeter scales on their bezels, the Chronomaster Sport is marked to 1/10 of a second increments to accommodate the fast-moving center chronograph hand that sweeps around the dial every ten seconds.

Image: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

The movements that drive each of these chronographs are where most of the differences lie—the Speedy “Moonwatch” is of course manual-winding while the Daytona and Chronomaster Sport are both self-winding. However, the Zenith’s El Primero automatic movement is high-beat (36,000 beats per hour), which means the chronograph hand moves at a much faster rate and measures elapsed time with a precision of 1/10th of a second (compared to Rolex’s 1/8 of a second). Power reserve ratings also differ with the Speedmaster supplying 50 hours, the Chronomaster Sport supplying 60 hours, and the Daytona supplying 70 hours.

Image: Zenith Chronomaster Sport El Primero

Both the Speedmaster and the Chronomaster Sport have sapphire casebacks for a view of their respective movements while in true Rolex form, the Daytona has a solid caseback. The Daytona and Chronomaster Sport are water-resistant to 100 meters but the Speedmaster is rated to 50 meters.

Prices & Value

The prices for the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, and Zenith Chronomaster Sport differ quite significantly. The least expensive of these three high-end chronographs is the Speedmaster, which has a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) of $7,150. The Zenith Chronomaster sits in the middle with an MSRP of $10,000 and the Rolex Daytona is the most expensive, retailing for $13,150.

The price variations are even starker in the secondary market. While pre-owned versions of the Omega Speedmaster 310.30.42.50.01.002 and Chronomaster 03.3100.3600/21.M3100 are selling close to or slightly less than retail prices, pre-owned Rolex Daytona 116500LN watches are selling well over double their MSRP due to their lack of availability at authorized retailers. The current value of a steel and ceramic Rolex Daytona ranges from $30,000 to $36,000 on the secondary market.

Winner

The Speedmaster, Chronomaster Sport, and Daytona are all incredible luxury chronograph watches that boast impressive pedigree, sleek designs, and top-notch performance. They each offer something distinctive too, whether it’s the Omega Speedmaster Professional’s faithfulness to its vintage-inspired design and mechanics, the Daytona’s luxurious appeal, or the Chronomaster Sport’s modern approach to showcasing the groundbreaking El Primero movement. They each have a place in watchmaking history and will no doubt continue to be favorites among the watch crowd for the foreseeable future.

With all that said, there can only be one winner. Although all three of these watches are top contenders, we think the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is the best of the best, and is most deserving of this title. Rivaling the elusive Rolex Daytona on nearly every metric, including water-resistance, power reserve, and sporting a self-winding movement—all the while being more affordable and easier to find—the Chronomaster Sport leaves very little room for buyer’s remorse. And although it may not be as iconic as the Rolex or Omega, we can’t really argue with good value and a solid spec sheet.

Do you agree with our decision? Is there another chronograph you think would put up a good fight? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Competing Chronographs: Cosmograph Daytona vs Speedmaster Professional vs Chronomaster Sport appeared first on StrapsCo.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903

At 48mm across and strapped onto a heavy oversized Bund strap, the Type 20 GMT is one badass tank of a pilot’s watch if you can handle the size and heft. Zenith’s historical claim to fame was when Louis Blériot made the history books by flying across the English Channel with one of their watches on his wrist in 1909, and ever since, the pilot’s watch has been a key piece of Zenith’s history. You could go down to the 45mm and grab the Heritage Pilot Ton-Up chronograph — a watch that still qualifies as being big in its own right — but the Type 20 GMT 1903 gets the nod for those looking for serious size.

CLERC Hydroscaph Central Chronograph

One of the really cool things about these seriously chunky dive watches from CLERC is the fact that they use articulated lugs. Sounds gimmicky at first, I know, but the benefits are HUGE. Even at 49.86mm across, the Hydroscaph Central Chronograph still don’t look out of place on the wrist of someone who would otherwise quickly tap-out at the 44 or 45mm mark! Speaking from experience, don’t let the case specs fool you here. On top of general comfort, I love the fact that they use a central chronograph minute hand (sort of like a Lemania 5100) for increased legibility on the 60-minute timing scale. Icing on the cake? The locking bezel uses that crown at 10 o’clock for adjustment, and the brand is involved with the building of personal luxury submarines, meaning part of their R&D is done with the watches strapped to the outside of a sub.

Graham Chronofighter Steel

Unlike with CLERC, you really do need to have big wrists to pull off any of the variations of the 47mm Chronofighter Steel from Graham. The brand uses a carbon fiber trigger as a chronograph pusher, and a ceramic bezel both to shed weight and to cut down the risk of accidental scratches. That funky trigger/pusher design has been part of their repertoire for ages, making it a very cool and easy to identify piece from across the room. We’re particularly fond of any of their stealthy PVD models, but most recently they also launched a 44mm vintage-inspired series that’s pretty cool too.

U-Boat Chimera 46 Carbon/Titanium Chronograph

U-Boat was one of the biggest players when large cases were at their peak, and I have to give them credit for continuing to evolve and innovate as the trend has been dying down. Last year we saw them launch a smaller-cased bronze version of their Chimera canteen-cased watch (alongside numerous larger bronze offerings) but most recently this Carbon and Titanium chronograph instantly became the new favorite of the bunch. Generally speaking the dark matte finish of forged carbon makes a watch look a little smaller on the wrist than its steel counterpart, but at 46mm across and a significant (though unlisted) thickness mean it’s plenty chunky for those who need the extra size.

How big is too big for you? Let us know in the comments below!

The post How Big Is Too Big? appeared first on StrapsCo.

Bulova

(Image: STR8BYT @ watchuseek.com)

Bulova made a ton of cool chronographs throughout the ‘60s and ‘70s, but these funky diver chronographs are at the top of our list (in particular the surfboard dial variant, seen in the above photo). Originally rated to 666 feet (just over 202 meters), powered by the usual bulletproof Valjoux 7733, and occasionally boasting acrylic bezels — those are a bit tougher to come by — these guys are a great way to look after your funky diver chronograph fix. Word to the wise though; you’re obviously best off to get the thing serviced and have fresh gaskets installed before even remotely considering getting one of these near water.

Yema & LeJour

(Image: docwatch @ uhrforum.de)

Already on a bit of an uptick, Yema (and their U.S. Distributor LeJour) chronographs are just the right kind of weird. Yema had a great run in France from the late ‘40s into the quartz crisis, building a mix of regatta chronographs (the Yachtingraf), the chunky Flygraf seen above, as well as a number of “Rallye” chronographs with a slight motorsport twist. Three-register units such as this one frequently used a Valjoux 7736, and of course two-register units are yet again powered by either the 7733, or 7734 when a date complication was required.

Nivada Grenchen & Croton

(Image: dddmmm8 @ chronocentric.com)

Much like LeJour was Yema’s US distribution, Croton played the same role for Nivada Grenchen through the glory days of casual chronographs. The Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (it’s a mouthful, isn’t it?) has been slowly and steadily rising in value over the last couple of years, but even now a respectably clean example can be tracked down for just north of $1,000. Strangely, these chronographs came with a wide variety of movements fitted in them including the Valjoux 92, 7733, Landeron 248 and Venus 210, so don’t be thrown if the one you find looks slightly different than others you’ve seen online.

Tissot Seastar

(Image: Ghentwatch @ watchuseek.com)

Of the “big name” watch brands out there, I’m still shocked at how undervalued these Tissot chronographs really are. The Seastar (and Seastar Navigator) went through a series of iterations over the years, ranging from the two-register model seen above, through to a very cool Lemania-powered version (and even a very funky regatta timer). Considering the current state of collectability of vintage Heuers, Omegas, and many other brands who’ve stood the test of time, we can only suspect that these chronos will be commanding a higher price of entry before too long.

With all these great budget-friendly options to choose from, we’re curious to know which ones are your personal favorites — let us know in the comments section down below!

The post A Guide To Entry-Level Vintage Chronographs appeared first on StrapsCo.